# What Is Coffee? (/en/docs/foundation/phase-1/chapter-01)



## Phenomenon [#phenomenon]

In a single day you might use the word "coffee" in five completely different senses.

The news says "coffee prices hit a record". A friend says "I saw coffee growing in Yunnan". A roaster's bag says "coffee beans, roasted last Tuesday". In the morning you say "I'd like a coffee". A sign in a botanical garden reads "Coffee, family Rubiaceae".

Is the "coffee" in those five sentences the same thing? A tree, a fruit, a sack of pale green seeds, a bag of brown beans, a cup of dark liquid — how are they related? And what happens between each one and the next?

## Variables [#variables]

Pull the word apart and you get five forms along one chain:

| Form           | What it is                                                | Roughly what it looks like                                                          |
| -------------- | --------------------------------------------------------- | ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- |
| Coffee plant   | An evergreen woody plant that flowers and fruits          | Glossy dark leaves, white flowers, fruit in clusters along the branches (Chapter 2) |
| Coffee cherry  | The fruit of the plant                                    | Like a small cherry, usually red when ripe, normally with two seeds inside          |
| Green coffee   | The seed, with the fruit removed and dried                | Pale green to straw-colored, hard, smells of grass or hay                           |
| Roasted coffee | Green coffee after roasting                               | Brown, bigger, lighter, brittle, with the coffee aroma we know                      |
| Brewed coffee  | The part of ground roasted coffee that water carries away | A dark liquid that is overwhelmingly water                                          |

Between each pair of forms there is one action that turns the first into the second: **growing**, **separating and drying**, **heating** and **dissolving**. This chapter asks what each action takes away, what it leaves, and what it adds.

## Experiment [#experiment]

Two thought experiments.

First: at a farm, you pick one kilogram of fully ripe coffee cherries and plan to take them all the way to a cup.

<Predict>
  How much green coffee will that kilogram of fruit become? After roasting, how much will be left? Compare them: cherries, green coffee, roasted coffee — which weighs the most, and which the least?
</Predict>

Second: on the table are two small bowls with the same number of beans — one green, one roasted.

<Predict>
  With your eyes closed, using only your nose, could you tell which bowl is green? Will green coffee smell like coffee? If you drop a few of each into a glass of water, which kind sinks?
</Predict>

## Observation [#observation]

**From cherry to green coffee, most of the weight is taken away.** A cherry is mostly water, skin, pulp and mucilage; the seed is only a small part of it. <Claim level="rule-of-thumb">A common figure is that it takes about five to six kilograms of fresh cherries to make one kilogram of green coffee</Claim>, depending on fruit size, ripeness and processing. How and when the rest is removed is what Chapter 7 calls "processing".

**Green coffee is dry, but not without water.** <Claim level="common-practice">The International Coffee Organization's quality target for exported green coffee is a moisture content between 8% and 12.5%</Claim>. Too wet and it can go moldy; too dry and it deteriorates and roasts less predictably (Chapter 12).

**Green coffee does not smell like coffee.** It smells more like grass, beans or hay. <Claim level="established-mechanism">Almost all of the coffee aroma we know is created during roasting, by heat-driven chemical reactions</Claim> whose raw materials are the sugars, proteins and acids stored in the seed (Chapters 2 and 13).

**Roasted beans are lighter than green ones, and bigger.** <Claim level="strong-evidence">During roasting the beans lose water and some of their dry matter, while swelling and becoming porous</Claim>. <Claim level="rule-of-thumb">The darker the roast, the more weight is lost; a common figure is 10–20% lighter</Claim>. So a bowl holds fewer roasted beans, and the same number of roasted beans weighs less.

**In water, green beans usually sink, and roasted beans usually float for a while.** Roasted beans are full of pores and gas from roasting, which makes them lighter than water overall.

**A cup of coffee is almost all water.** <Claim level="common-practice">In a cup of filter coffee, dissolved coffee material is usually only a little over one percent</Claim>; the rest is water. Most of what was in the grounds — mainly insoluble plant fiber — stays in the filter (Chapters 22 and 23).

## Model [#model]

### One chain, four actions [#one-chain-four-actions]

Join the five forms and you have a chain from tree to cup. Each step is driven by one action:

1. **Growing** (plant → cherry): leaves make sugar from sunlight, and the plant stores some of it, along with other materials, in the seed (Chapter 2).
2. **Separating and drying** (cherry → green coffee): the fruit is removed, and the seed's moisture is brought down to a level where it can be stored and shipped (Chapters 7 and 12).
3. **Heating** (green → roasted): heat turns the seed's stores into color and aroma, and makes the bean brittle enough to grind and dissolve (Chapters 13 and 14).
4. **Dissolving** (roasted → cup): grinding exposes surface area, and water carries away a small soluble part of it (Chapters 19 and 23).

### Each step can only use what the last one left [#each-step-can-only-use-what-the-last-one-left]

The chain has a direction: later steps can only work with what earlier steps left behind. <Claim level="rule-of-thumb">A common way to put it: upstream sets how good a cup can be, and downstream decides how much of that is realized</Claim>. Roasting cannot create what was never in the seed, and brewing cannot create aroma the roast did not make.

That is only a starting point, though: every downstream step can also ruin what came from upstream. Good green coffee can be scorched, and good roasted coffee can be brewed badly (Chapter 23).

### The further downstream, the less stable [#the-further-downstream-the-less-stable]

The second pattern is stability. <Claim level="rule-of-thumb">Green coffee keeps for months, up to about a year; roasted coffee changes noticeably within weeks; once ground, aroma is lost faster still; a brewed cup changes within tens of minutes</Claim>. That is why coffee crosses the world as green coffee, and roasting usually happens fairly close to the people who drink it (Chapter 17).

### Which "coffee" do you mean? [#which-coffee-do-you-mean]

Back to the five sentences at the start:

* "Coffee prices" usually means the international trading price of **green coffee**;
* "Coffee growing in Yunnan" means the **plant**, or the **cherries** on it;
* The "coffee beans" in the bag are **roasted coffee**, and the roast date is about its freshness;
* "A coffee" is the small part that **dissolved**;
* The botanical garden sign is about the plant itself.

One word, different positions on the chain. Once you know which position you mean, many questions point somewhere.

## Transfer [#transfer]

Next time you read something about coffee, ask first which part of the chain it is about:

| What you see                  | Which part of the chain          | Where to look  |
| ----------------------------- | -------------------------------- | -------------- |
| "1,800 m elevation", "Geisha" | The plant and where it grows     | Chapters 3, 4  |
| "Hand-picked ripe cherries"   | The moment fruit leaves the tree | Chapter 6      |
| "Washed", "natural"           | Cherry → green coffee            | Chapters 7–12  |
| "Light roast", "roast date"   | Green → roasted                  | Chapters 13–18 |
| "1:15 ratio", "92 °C water"   | Roasted → cup                    | Chapters 19–24 |

<Claim level="rule-of-thumb">When a cup tastes wrong, walking back up this chain works better than changing a variable at random</Claim>: first ask whether it is a brewing problem or something about the coffee itself, then move upstream.

## Misconceptions [#misconceptions]

**"Coffee beans are beans."** They are the seeds of a flowering tree. <Claim level="established-mechanism">Coffee belongs to the madder family, Rubiaceae, not the legume family</Claim>. "Bean" is just about the shape (Chapter 2).

**"Coffee beans grow in pods, like peas."** Coffee has no pods. The seeds grow inside a juicy fruit, wrapped in turn by skin, pulp, mucilage and a papery inner shell. So the first job is not "shelling pods" but "removing fruit".

**"Coffee beans are naturally brown and already smell like coffee."** A seed freshly taken from the fruit and dried is pale green or straw-colored and smells of grass. The brown color and the coffee aroma are both made by roasting.

**"Green coffee is a dry good and never changes."** Green coffee is far more stable than roasted coffee, but it is still a seed that was once alive. It holds moisture and slowly reacts with air, temperature and humidity. Kept too long, it loses some of its fresh flavor, and the trade says it has "aged" (Chapter 12).

## Real Lab [#real-lab]

There is no registered lab card for this chapter, but with a small handful of green coffee and a small handful of roasted coffee you can see most of the Observation section for yourself. Home-roasting suppliers sell green coffee, and you need very little.

1. **Look.** Lay out twenty of each side by side on white paper. Compare color, size and the slit down the middle.
2. **Press.** Push a fingernail into each. Which is harder? Can you snap a roasted bean?
3. **Smell.** Green first, then roasted. Write three words for each.
4. **Weigh.** (If you have a kitchen scale) weigh twenty of each; or fill the same small spoon with each and count the beans.
5. **Soak.** Drop a few of each into a glass of room-temperature water and see which sink and which float.

Finally, write the five forms in order on a sheet of paper. Between each pair, write the action, and the evidence you saw with your own eyes today.

## Check Your Model [#check-your-model]

**Predict.** You buy one kilogram of green coffee and roast it to medium-dark at home. Roughly how much roasted coffee will you have? If you roast darker, more or less?

<Accordions>
  <Accordion title="One way to think about it · Predict">
    Less than a kilogram, because roasting drives off water and some dry matter. A common figure is 10–20% lighter, so a bit over 800 grams. Roast darker and you lose more, so you end up with less — even though the beans have swelled and take up more space.
  </Accordion>
</Accordions>

**Diagnose.** A friend says: "This bag is really fresh, roasted last week — although it says the green coffee was harvested two years ago." Is that a contradiction?

<Accordions>
  <Accordion title="One way to think about it · Diagnose">
    No — the two statements are about two different positions on the chain. The roast date is about the freshness of the roasted coffee; the harvest year is about the age of the green coffee. Green coffee is far more stable than roasted, but after two years it has probably lost some flavor. No matter how fresh the roast, it cannot make the green coffee young again.
  </Accordion>
</Accordions>

**Explain.** In your own words, explain why coffee is mostly shipped around the world as green coffee rather than as roasted beans or ground coffee.

<Accordions>
  <Accordion title="One way to think about it · Explain">
    The further down the chain, the less stable coffee becomes. Green coffee is low in moisture and dense, and keeps for months. After roasting, the bean is porous, and its aroma and gas keep escaping, so its flavor changes within weeks; ground coffee loses it even faster. So the long journey is made in the most stable form, and roasting happens as close as practical to the people who will drink it.
  </Accordion>
</Accordions>
